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wise I would have had some conversation with him on the subject of his profession. For I found the shortest and best road to such information as I wanted, was to talk with the principal professors, wherever I went. Learned men and books may be more useful as to ancient music, but it is only living musicians that can explain what living music is. This method, how- ever, where I had no letters of recommen- dation, cost me a little money, some assu- rance, and a great deal of trouble.
Those who visit Italy for the sake of painting, sculpture, or architecture, do well to see what those arts afford in France, first; as they become so dainty afterwards, that they can bear to look at but few things which that kingdom af- fords; and as I expected to have the same prejudices, or feelings at my return, about their music, I endeavoured to give it a fair hearing first, in the capital, and the two extremities of the kingdom, Paris, Lisle, and Lyons. Indeed I stopped at
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